The Sutherland Trail
If anyone tells me the north-west of Scotland has a poor climate then I simply won’t believe them. Last year my wife and I walked the Cape Wrath Trail in glorious weather and I’ve just returned from two more fantastic weeks in Sutherland.
During the past week I’ve been filming for a television programme I’m working on for the BBC but the first week was spent walking a route that might become known as the Sutherland Trail.
The route runs for 70-odd miles between Lochinver and Tongue and is mostly on trails and tracks with a little bit of off-trail walking and a few miles on minor tarmac roads. It potentially takes in hills like Suilven, Canisp, Ben More Assynt, Arkle and Foinaven, Ben Hope and Ben Loyal but the route can be walked as a long distance trail without the summits.
We left Lochinver a couple of weeks ago in beautiful sunshine, camped below Suilven, continued through the hills towards Elphin but cut across the east shoulder of Canisp and followed the river to Inchnadamph. On our second day the temperature hit 30 degrees!!!
We then climbed over the high shoulder of the Corbett Glas Bheinn and followed wonderful stalkers’ paths to the virtually dry Eas a Coul Aliunn, supposedly the longest waterfall in the UK. We then dropped down to Kylescu and stayed at the wonderful Kylescu Hotel.
Next day we wandered over the high route of the Reay Estate to Achfary, made our way to the bothy at Lone and climbed over another high bealach to Gleann Mhor below Ben Hope. Our last day followed an old peat road, the Moine Path, over the north shoulder of Ben Hope to the road just south of Tongue, close to Ben Loyal.
The route took us just over 5 days and was magnificent. I’ll get some images of it onto the Gallery in the next few days.
The images on this post are (above); crossing the high ground between Kylestrome and Achfary and (bottom) Arkle.
August 18th, 2008 at 8:45 am
Interested in your Sutherland Trail. Is this an official long distance trail and if so where can I get info on it?
August 18th, 2008 at 8:49 am
No Roger, it isn’t an “official” trail but one that we’ve been developing for a television programme due to be broadcast at Christmas. There will also be a book on the route, probably next year.
October 3rd, 2008 at 9:51 pm
Sorry- can’ t wait I ve just taken delivery of my TGO and i ve got leave booked from 20- October- Ishould be attacking my remaining 130 Munros or thereabouts but the pull of this m,ay be too much. I have climbed Hope and Klibreck before but saw nothing of Suilven and others because of bad weather. Tongue recalls walking back from the hotel tothe youth hostel in daylight durinmg the hour before midnight . I,m thinking of willd camping with a tarp - a la Ray Mears to save weight,
If any spontaneously crazy 40 or 50 something fit woman north or south of the border fancies a crazy few days - I am 56 but still running /walking /biking / please email me on ricorose@gmail.com If no replies I will contiunue with plan 1 - solo
October 7th, 2008 at 7:30 pm
Any idea if “Sutherland: The Empty Lands?” is likely to get an airing on BBC south of the border, I’d love to see it? We walked from Muiseal to the top of Loch Meadie via the Moine path, then back to Altnacaillich over the moors, this June. It would be great to see that wilderness on telly to bring it all back. It was hard going but you knew you’d achieved something at the end of it.
October 14th, 2008 at 5:50 pm
Hi Neil,
Sorry for the delay in replying. I’ve been in Sutherland filming the last section for the programme. Initially the show will be broadcast on BBC Scotland and Sky Channel 990 sometime over Christmas, possibly Boxing Day, and I hope it will be networked by the BBC later.
October 27th, 2008 at 5:42 pm
Just completed the excellent route 20-24th Oct with a similarly 60 something accomplice. Didn’t see Richard Rose anywhere (or was that his tarp we saw flying overhead). Tussling with the elements was interesting and solving the logistics challenging. I’m sure this will be an appealing route and hopefully of great economic benefit to the area. Have fun folks.
October 29th, 2008 at 10:06 pm
Looking forward to seeing this. It’s “my” part of the world. And, in my view, one of the best hidden gems in the UK. Will the book include the easier routes? Any ideas yet of a screening date?
November 14th, 2008 at 2:09 pm
Thank you for the induction of the walk. It is a walk I will definitely plan to do in 2009 and I can’t wait to see the TV program about it. Just ordered the copy of TGO you mentioned to see more info about it. Please post when the program is showing as I would like to record it.
As you say the area up there is fantastic and the weather is usually great - been there last in September to walk from Kirvaig beach to Kinlochbervie and had fantastic weather. Climbed Suilven, Cul Mor and Ben Hope so far and only can recommend it to anyone.
November 27th, 2008 at 4:22 pm
Hi I will be walking from Tongue to Fort William next April/May time of next year. The route will include from Gobernuisgach Lodge GR438418 to Lone Bothy GR309422. The map shows 2 routes one due west passing Bealach na Feithe, or going due North West thru Glen Golly. in this PC world can I say Glen Golly, and onto Lone Bothy. What in your opinion is the better route to take please.
regards Haydn
November 27th, 2008 at 4:33 pm
Hi Haydn,
I’m afraid I’m not too familiar with the Glen Golly route but I would think it is longer that way. There’s a direct path over the Bealach na Feithe to Lone - it’s a good path so its much quicker - indeed the logical route is over the Bealach na Feithe and down to Lone with wonderful views across Loch Stack to Ben Stack. Be aware that Lone Bothy is permanently locked!
November 27th, 2008 at 4:39 pm
Hi Helen,
The transmission date for the television programme is provisionally Boxing Day, but that might change. However, it will definitely be shown over the Festive period. I’ll update on my blog when I know 100% for certain.
November 27th, 2008 at 11:53 pm
Hi Cameron thanks for the tip, yes the direct route west looks the easiest and shorter but Glen Golly looks interesting. Will keep you posted. regards Haydn
December 20th, 2008 at 1:40 pm
Hi Cameron. The programme is now coming up on BBC2 Scotland schedules and EPG on Sky 990 for Fri 26 Dec 1900-2000. A good reason to have Sky when you live in Cornwall!
December 20th, 2008 at 1:50 pm
Thanks John. There have been times when walking the South West Coast Path that I’ve envied you folk who live in Cornwall. A magnificent part of the country.
Hope you enjoy the programme…
January 13th, 2009 at 10:22 pm
Hi, we got quite excited when we saw the routes that you were taking as we do long distance horse back trail riding holidays in the area and follow some of the paths that you took! We started last summer with coast to coast rides from Brora to Kylestrome, via Loch Choire, Altnaharra, Gobernuisgach & Achfary, and this year we have rides planned which include the North coast taking in the Moine path, and a southern route from West to East which takes us beneath Suilven, following the Oykell and the surrounding hills back to beaches of the East. It’s lovely to see this very special part of Scotland being promoted in such a positive way - it’s about time! Thank you Cameron!!!
January 16th, 2009 at 9:43 am
Once a year I take time to do a ldw having done theWest Highland way a few time and the great glen way speyside way I am very interested in looking at the Sutherland Way this year have you any idea when your book might be published or can you furnish me with info about the way
Regrds
Dave
January 16th, 2009 at 9:59 am
Hi Dave,
I’ve put some basic information elsewhere on my blog and I’ll update it from time to time. I’m actually still writing the book, trying to fit it in between everything else and still get time to get on the hill!
I hope the book might be out by the spring and I also hope the DVD of the television programme, with some extra material on it, will be available in the next couple of months.
January 19th, 2009 at 5:35 pm
Hi Camero
Thanks for coming back I’ll keep an eye out for them
February 23rd, 2009 at 5:49 pm
Just got back from a quick sortie of last 2 days of WHW with a newbie to wild camping and others. As you do we started talking about the next trip and I suggested Sutherland Trail and April around Easter seemed a possibility. Do you think that would be a good idea in view of weather and the legendary nature of the vicious Scottish midge found north of Ullapool (supposed to be even worse than any other midges found in other areas of Scotland)? Is there public transport up there? I guess it will be once a day post bus in and out at each end.
Got any other 5 - 7 day trail you can recommend as an alternative?
February 25th, 2009 at 11:04 am
Hi PB,
You won’t get much troubled by midgies at Easter, although you might get a mixture of weather, but that’s the chance you take walking anywhere in Scotland. I think the ST would offer you a great trip - it’s not particularly hard and you have the option of climbing the hills or not. The vast majority of the trip is on good tracks so you shouldn’t find it too difficult. There is a train from Inverness to Lairg and from there a postbus to Lochinver. Coming back there is a postbus from Tongue to Lairg.
Aviemore to Fort William offers a good week’s walking, and there are good routes between Aviemore and Glasgow. I’d strongly recommend the Sutherland Trail though for spectaular scenery. The DVD is out now and is available from this website
March 8th, 2009 at 6:09 pm
Hullo, Cameron -
Thank you for constructing what looks like a wonderful walk! We’re tentatively planning to try it in late May. The one point that concerns us slightly is crossing the Loanan - did you use the bridge shown where the river leaves the lochan below Canisp, ford the river further north, or is there another bridge not shown? We’re novice river-forders
regards
sarah
March 14th, 2009 at 9:35 am
Hi Sarah,
The River Loanan isn’t too difficult to cross - we crossed it with dry feet in June, but I do appreciate that it might be a but higher in May, especially if the weather has been wet. If it is high you could simply cross by the bridge below Canisp and walk down the eastern bank of the river towards Inchnadamph.
March 30th, 2009 at 5:36 pm
Hi, Cameron,
On a previous backpacking trek in the northwest my partner and I had an extremely friendly and informative chat with Charlie, the gillie at Benmore Lodge, Loch Ailsh on the subject of deer stalking which we now understand to peak in the months of Sept - November.
We plan to start The Sutherland Trail at the very end of August this year - we cannot do it at any other time - and would appreciate any advice you could give us on the subject of any deerstalking which may take place en-route at this time as we do not want to interfere with what is an important scource of income for the area.
Best wishes,
John and Kate
April 18th, 2009 at 8:54 am
I think you might be courting trouble going at that time of the year, unless you’re prepared to talk to landowners en route. There should be no problem between Lochinver and Canisp. There might be some difficulty between Inchnadamph and Kylescu, although you could take a lower level route that parallels the main road. I think the biggest problem would be between Achfary and Strath More. This is all hunting country and all Duke of Westminster estate where the record of tolerance to hillwalkers during the stalking season is not great.
July 13th, 2009 at 10:27 pm
Dear Cameron,
Am planning to walk from Fort William to Cape Wrath in late August. Have planned route to go past bothy at Shenavall, on to Corrie Hallie, then cross Loch Broom to Ullapool near GR 115930. Any idea if it is possible to get a boat across Loch Broom to Ullapool? Or make to Inverlael and walk along road to Ullapool? I know what I’d rather do. Any local contacts of boat owners willing to make the crossing? With thanks.
Regards, Dave.