The Most Supernatural place in Scotland
I enjoyed a short backpacking trip with Chris Townsend at the weekend - through the Gaick Pass between Atholl and Kingussie, allegedly the most supernatural place in Scotland.
We thought the recent snows would be mostly gone but we spent much of the time walking on tracks that were layered with a 2-3 inch deep slush with ice below it. While it didn’t stop us it did slow us down considerably and we both felt it pretty tough going. The snow-streaked hills of the Dalnacardoch Forest were hushed and only the river and the occasional grumbling of grouse broke the silence. At one point a golden eagle took off from the track in front of us and great herds of deer moved like cloud shadows across the hill. We were heading for the steep sided trench of the Gaick Pass, once described by the great writer/naturalist Seton Gordon as the most supernatural place in Scotland – “Black Gaick of the wind whistling crooked glens, ever enticing her admirers to their destruction” was the warning of one 18th century Gaelic writer. This is the home of the Leannan Sith, the faery sweetheart, her fatal attraction luring hunters and travellers. It was here too, in 1958, that Col Jimmy Dennis was reported to have seen a tiny elf-like creature, the Sprite of Gaick.
It appears to have been a rather curious event that sealed Gaick’s evil reputation. In January of 1800 Captain John McPherson of Balachroan and three companions were killed when an avalanche destroyed the bothy in which they slept. The annihilation, so sudden and complete, was put down to supernatural causes. A memorial stone marks the spot near Gaick Lodge.
Chris and I didn’t experience anything particularly although some distant lights did confuse us as we approached the head of Glen Tromie. A relatively new house had been built and neither of us knew of its existence. We camped beside Bhran Cottage in Glen Tromie and despite the glen’s reputation as “the glen of the stormy blasts” we had a very pleasant, if cold, night. Chris was testing a new Hilleberg solo free-standing tent while I had my long-favoured Akto. I was also trying out some bits and pieces from Backpackinglight.co.uk - a very good silk sleeping bag liner and a handy little specs case that can attach to your pack’s shoulder staps. I was also using, for the first time, the GoLite Pursuit, an ideal pack for weekend trips like this that weighs in at about 2lb 11oz/1.22kg with a 50 litre capacity
Despite the gloomy weather it was a good, if short, little trip and it was good to spend some time with Chris putting the world to right! 